Tips, tutorials, model spotlights, and 3D printing deep dives from the OreKo team. Whether you are just starting out or fine-tuning your setup, there is something here for you.
Deep dives into individual OreKo models. Print settings, assembly tips, filament recommendations, and what makes each design tick.
Step-by-step tutorials on slicing, print settings, filament selection, bed adhesion, post-processing, and more. Written for real printers, not perfect conditions.
Card game setups, cosplay builds, dollhouse projects, and community prints. We cover the culture around the hobby, not just the hardware.
A cosplay build that isn’t documented well is a build that lives in one room at one convention. The same build documented correctly reaches cosplay communities across Reddit, TikTok, Instagram, and specialized forums, builds a following, opens doors to collaborations, and in some cases earns back its material costs through commissions or Patreon support. The…
Cosplay competitions judge construction, not the character or how well you “look” like them. This distinction matters and most first-time competitors don’t understand it until after their first judging session. A flawlessly beautiful costume made entirely from purchased components scores lower than a less photogenic costume that was made entirely by hand. Understanding what judges…
Florida’s convention season runs nearly year-round but concentrates heavily in the fall and early winter months when the heat breaks and the big national events choose the state for their venues. If you’re building cosplay in South Florida right now, these are the events to plan your build timeline around. Deadlines matter: a build started…
Epoxy coating is the technique that makes a 3D printed prop look injection-molded. Applied over primed PLA, epoxy fills layer lines, self-levels to a smooth surface, and cures to a hard finish that sands better than any filler primer. XTC-3D, Art Resin, and UV resins all do this, but they do it differently. Choosing the…
Printing directly onto fabric is one of the most underused FDM hybrid techniques in cosplay. The idea is simple: stretch a piece of fabric on the print bed, start the print, and let the first layers bond mechanically into the fabric weave. The result is a printed piece with fabric permanently embedded in its base…
Shields are one of the most photogenic and most awkward cosplay props to actually carry. The photogenic part is easy: print large flat panels with strong surface detail and paint them well. The awkward part is the 4-8 hours of carrying. The difference between a shield that photographs at check-in and gets abandoned behind the…
A printed helmet is structurally complete when it comes off the printer. It is not wearable until the interior is finished. Without an interior liner, a printed helmet sits hard against the head, rocks under the slightest movement, concentrates pressure points that become painful within 30 minutes, and transmits heat from the PLA directly to…
Every FDM helmet build starts with the same two questions: what scale does the helmet need to be for my head, and how many pieces does it need to be for my printer? Answer those correctly before you run a single layer and the rest of the build follows logically. Answer them wrong and you…
N52 neodymium magnets change what cosplay armor closures are capable of. A magnetic closure snaps cleanly from 10-15mm away, holds firmly during active wear, and releases with one hand without fumbling. For armor that needs to come on and off quickly, attach cleanly for photos, or travel disassembled for packing, embedded magnets are more reliable…
The most wearable armor builds use two materials in the same build: rigid PLA or PETG for the structural panels that need to hold shape and look accurate, and TPU for every element that touches the body, connects panels, or needs to survive repeated flex. Designing a hybrid build requires thinking about where each material’s…
PLA armor straps break. They break at the first strap hole, at the buckle slot, at the thinnest point of the connector arm. Every maker who has tried to print a rigid PLA strap connector for wearable armor has discovered this the hard way, usually in the car on the way to the con. TPU…
Scale modeling at small scales is where FDM printers are pushed to their limits and where getting the settings right matters most. A 1:12 scale door handle is 3mm long. A 1:48 scale window is 15mm wide. Features at these scales are near or below the FDM printer’s practical resolution, and the normal settings that…